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The Real Meaning
of Songkran
It's April 13,
the middle of Thailand's hot season. As the fiery sun beats down, what
could be more refreshing than to have someone sprinkle cold water over
you? Or to be the target of a water pistol, a rivulet from a water hose?
How about buckets of ice water dumped over you, even if your enthusiasm
wanes after the tenth bucket? Water throwing is the popular image of Songkran
among foreigners but to the Thai, the holiday is more than that.
Songkran is
the traditional Thai new year. A Sanskrit word meaning "move into", the
name denotes the passage of the sun from Pisces into Aries, completing
one 12-month cycle and marking the entry to a new solar year.
By ancient tradition,
the holiday is observed as a time of thanksgiving for acts of kindness
one has received, and as a reaffirmation of familial and communal bonds.
It is also a time of spiritual renewal, a spring cleaning of the house
and of one's soul, wiping clean the slate to begin the new year afresh.
The strength
of these bonds is evident in the effort which Thais make to observe them.
Many Thai laborers receive only one long holiday per year, the four days
of Songkran. Public transportation is strained to the limits as city-based
Thais rush home to their villages to share the holiday festivities with
their families.
Six ancient
values are celebrated at Songkran. "Thanksgiving" honors those who have
shown one goodwill. One demonstrates his or her recognition of their kindness
by pouring lustral (water blessed by Buddhist monks) on Buddha images,
elders, and respected individuals.
For the second
value, one honors the contributions of one's ancestors by performing good
deeds towards others, "merit-making" as the Thais call it. Worshipers
release fish into the rivers and ponds and free birds from cages as an
act of merit-making.
One acknowledges
the third cultural value of responsibility towards family and home, by
thoroughly cleaning one's house.
"Respect for
religion" is both for the roles of the Buddhist monks and for the community
they serve. One joins with friends to clean the temples, donate food to
monks, bathe Buddha images, sprinkle water over monks, and beautify the
temple compound.
The fifth value
involves acknowledging ones debt to friends for their good deeds. Friends
exchange food and sprinkle water to cool each other. Finally, one celebrates
the spirit of communal cooperation by participating in community activities,
sharing the holiday with others, and spreading happiness and goodwill
all around.
The central
element of Songkran is water. As in most societies, water is a potent
symbol of abundance, fertility, purity, and spiritual cleansing; ritualistic
bathing figures in Thai rites of passage and ceremonies throughout his
or her life. Like the other principal Thai holiday, Loy Krathong-also
water-based-one washes away accumulated bad luck from the previous year.
Thus, unlike the Western New Year which obliges one to vow to improve
themselves beginning on January 1, the Thais clean their spiritual house,
as it were, twice each year.
Songkran celebrations
run for three days. April 13 is dedicated to sending off the old year.
In the morning, Thais stand by the roadside to give alms to passing monks.
In the afternoon, the town's principal Buddha images are carried in a
grand procession through the streets while spectators toss small bowls
of water on them to clean them.
In Bangkok,
that image is the Phra Buddha Sihing, the kingdom's second most important
image after the Emerald Buddha. It is reverentially conveyed from its
normal resting place in the Buddhaisawan Temple (now part of the National
Museum) to Thonburi and through Bangkok's old royal city before being
placed in the elliptical Sanam Luang, the sacred ground next to Wat Phra
Kaew. There, thousands of ordinary devotees ritually bathe it throughout
the remainder of the day.
On April 14,
as the sun enters a new house, Thais offer food to monks in the morning
and then the day of fun begins. The tradition of tossing water derives
from an antique Indian rite to ensure a healthy rainfall. The holiday
reached Thailand via Burma in the eleventh century.
There are two
myths. One tale involves seven nak (nagas), the mythical serpents-dragons,
if you will-who are water symbols. They live in the sky and on Songkran,
they have the task of tossing water at each other to determine how much
rain will fall in the coming monsoon season. Contrary to expectation,
the fewer the nak, the better, since they will spend less time playing
and more on doing the job of delivering rain to earth and ensuring a bountiful
rice harvest.
The other involves
a riddle solved by a seven-year-old boy, the result of which, a god was
obliged to sever his own head, which is carried around each year by his
seven daughters-one for each day of the week-lest it fall to the ground
and parch the land.
In the evening,
sand carried to the temples is heaped into small chedis (stupas) and decorated
with colorful flags and flowers. The practice reflects an ancient belief
that when one walks away from a temple, particles of sand from the temple
grounds are inadvertently carried away on one's shoes. Building chedis
is a practical way of replacing the lost sand lost, and an act of merit-making
through which blessings are earned.
Many northern
temple compounds hold tall bho trees, the tree under which Buddha is said
to have meditated to reach enlightenment. In the Mai Kham Bho Procession,
devotees place wooden poles beneath heavy branches to support their weight,
an act of goodwill for the blessings the tree has bestowed.
April 15 is
essentially a continuation of previous celebrations, augmented by the
pouring of lustral water to pay respect to ancestors who have passed on,
thanking them for their contributions to ones life.
Songkran in
Phra Padaeng, just south of Bangkok, is historically associated with its
Mon residents who carried the traditions of Burma with them when they
migrated to Thailand eons ago. As a result, while Songkran is celebrated
in similar fashion to the Thai holiday, its observance occurs a week later
on April 20-22.
Overseas, one
can join in Songkran celebrations in major cities with large concentrations
of Thais such as Paris, Sydney, Washington D.C., Los Angeles, Tokyo, and
Taiwan.
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